LFW | KTZ AW 13
The collection is a mix of tailoring, street style and fantastical proportions. Baseball caps with elongated, beaklike peaks and bizarre head pieces, curled ram’s horns and angled daggers, immediately added a sense of playful theatrics. From the opening outfit it is obvious that this is a tough collection, all black and white, leather and pvc. The girl who wears this is urban, streetwise and has a lot of attitude. Even the seemingly sweet pinafore dresses and pleated skirts are constructed of black leather and PVC. During the opening section of the show there is a strong use of typography. Monogrammed collars and white text on black backdrops add an almost gothic air, whilst a monochrome sports jacket paired with a pleated leather skirt seemed somewhat modern warrior-esq. The collection gradually begins to slip into the realm of colour- initially with a flash of yellow and blue ethnic print, though shrouded in more darkness. Later we see gold, geometric print dresses and swathes of metallic fabric. Oversized jackets formed of what look like billowing parachute silk, oversized and voluminous, add a chic sportswear edge to the collection whilst still playing with proportion. Stiff skirts and ruffles give a slightly more girly edge to the collection though all the while it is still teemed with that same hard black as before. As well as the dramatic headpieces, the outfits have been styled with statement shoes, often knee high boots or staggering platforms which seem to flow seamlessly out of the bottom of the ever present gleaming black leggings. Towards the end of the show we are treated to another flash of colour, red this time, and the collection seems to take on a more feminine tone. Here we briefly see softer tailoring and while the leather is still present it seems to let the colour and pattern speak for itself. Throughout the show long fringing plays a great role and is seen running off the seams of jacket sleeves and dress hems. Long liquid black gloves and wide brimmed hats are another prevalent theme and help to build cohesion between each outfit. Overall the collection had a large helping of attitude and in a good sense. It was urban, edgy and tough but was not afraid to show a glimpse of a more feminine and sexy side. The show effectively demonstrated the two designers strong aesthetic and a very distinguishable style and while dramatic, I think some key pieces could be wearable for some of us non model folk.
Words | Poppy Sakulku
Photo | Katie Davies